🌼 Normandy in May: Jazz, Light & Long Days

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First published: November 2025

Wondering what to do in Normandy in May? Looking for things to do in La Manche this month? May is when Normandy finally exhales. The air softens, the fields glow with buttercups, and daylight stretches well into the evening. Festivals return, abbeys light up, and the rhythm of the coast slows to that perfect early-summer tempo. It’s the month where culture meets calm — and nowhere captures it better than here in La Manche.

🎷 Jazz sous les Pommiers – Music Beneath the Apple Trees

Each May, the peaceful town of Coutances transforms into a musical playground for one of France’s most beloved festivals: Jazz sous les Pommiers — literally, “Jazz under the Apple Trees.” Founded in 1982 by local music lover Thierry Giard, the event began as a small community concert and has since grown into an internationally renowned celebration of jazz, blues, funk, and world music.

For one vibrant week (this year, 3–10 May 2025), Coutances is alive with brass bands, street performers, and open-air jam sessions that spill out from cafés onto cobbled lanes. The cathedral becomes the festival’s heartbeat — its steps turning into a stage for spontaneous performances. Expect local cider, Norman cheese, and musicians from across the globe. Book accommodation early: every bed in town is taken weeks in advance.

From our gîte, it’s just a short drive to the centre of Coutances — the perfect base for soaking in the atmosphere by day and retreating to peaceful countryside nights. Jazz sous les Pommiers isn’t just a festival; it’s the sound of spring in Normandy.

🕯️ Pierres en Lumières – Monuments in Light

Another highlight of May in Normandy is Pierres en Lumières — literally “Stones in Light.” For one magical weekend (typically mid-May), castles, abbeys, churches, and historic sites across the region are illuminated after dark. Entry is free, and many locations host concerts, storytelling, and guided candlelit tours.

In La Manche, places like Hambye Abbey, Abbaye de La Lucerne, and Coutances Cathedral glow against the night sky, offering a truly atmospheric experience. Bring a camera and a jacket — it’s one of those rare events that blends heritage, art, and serenity in perfect balance.

🖼️ European Night of Museums

Mid-May also brings the European Night of Museums, where galleries and museums across France open their doors after dark — for free. In Normandy, you can wander through candlelit exhibits, live performances, and late-night tours until midnight.

In La Manche, it’s the perfect excuse to rediscover local treasures: the Musée d’Art Moderne Richard Anacréon in Granville (with its collection of Cocteau and Picasso), the Christian Dior Museum overlooking the sea, and the Villedieu-les-Poêles Copper Workshop Museum, which traces centuries of craftsmanship. Whether you’re an art lover or just curious, this evening offers culture with a twist — quiet, local, and beautifully French.

⛵ CIC Normandy Channel Race

May also sees the return of one of Normandy’s most thrilling sporting spectacles — the CIC Normandy Channel Race. Starting from Caen, in the Calvados region, skippers set sail on a 1,000-mile round trip that takes them past the coast of England, Ireland, and back to Normandy. The race features the agile Class40 yachts — light, fast, and fiercely competitive.

The departure from Caen is a public celebration, with a lively race village full of stands, local food, and live commentary. It’s an incredible opportunity to witness world-class sailing up close before the fleet disappears toward the horizon. For visitors exploring Normandy in May, it’s a thrilling addition to the region’s cultural calendar.

🐄 Foire Sainte-Croix – Lessay’s Country Charm

Head south-west from Coutances to discover another slice of authentic Normandy life: the Foire Sainte-Croix in Lessay. While the big autumn fair is one of the oldest in France (dating back to the 11th century), the spring edition in May is a smaller, more local affair celebrating regional produce, crafts, and traditions.

Expect a warm welcome, traditional Norman pastries, cider stands, and family entertainment. It’s an event that connects past and present — the kind of honest rural celebration that reminds you why the Manche is so special. Farmers chat, artisans display their work, and visitors leave with baskets full of local treats. You won’t find anything more “Normandy” than that.

🥖 Flavours of May – From Market to Table

May is the perfect month for food lovers visiting Normandy. The first strawberries appear, alongside green asparagus, artichokes, peas, and fresh herbs. Local cheeses like Camembert and Pont-l’Évêque reach creamy perfection, and the coastal markets brim with crab, scallops, and early-season sea bass. Cider houses reopen for tastings, and terraces buzz with lunchtime chatter again.

In Coutances, the Thursday morning market is bursting with colour — baskets of radishes, fresh bread still warm, and locals trading recipes for the best omelette aux fines herbes. If you prefer seafood, the harbours of Granville and Barneville-Carteret offer unbeatable freshness, often straight from the boat to the stall.

🌊 Coastal Calm & Countryside Walks

With warmer days and longer evenings, May is ideal for exploring Normandy’s coast and countryside. Beaches like Hauteville-sur-Mer and Montmartin-sur-Mer are peaceful, with soft light perfect for photography. Inland, the Marais du Cotentin et du Bessin nature reserve is alive with birds returning from migration — herons, storks, and warblers nesting in the reeds.

It’s also an excellent month for hiking and cycling. The air is mild, the paths are firm underfoot, and the landscape is in full bloom. Whether you prefer a gentle stroll through apple orchards or a coastal trail with sea views, May gives you the best of both worlds — beauty and breathing room.

🚗 Road Trip Inspiration – Abbeys, Gardens & Sea Views

One of the best things to do in Normandy in May is simply to drive. Follow the country roads linking Hambye Abbey to La Lucerne, stop at roadside stalls for cider and honey, and finish your day watching the sunset over the dunes near Agon-Coutainville. The region is full of unexpected treasures — a lighthouse here, a walled garden there, always with space to park and time to wander.

And because May is still off-season, parking is free in most towns, and you’ll often have the view entirely to yourself.

🌟 Final Thoughts: Why Visit Normandy in May?

Normandy in May is alive with light, music, and warmth. It’s the month when the region finds its rhythm — not too hot, not too busy, just beautifully balanced. From jazz echoing under apple trees to abbeys glowing under starlight, from sailing races to museum nights, it’s the perfect blend of culture and calm.

So if you’re wondering what’s on in La Manche in May — now you know. Pack light, follow the music, and let Normandy show you how to enjoy spring properly.

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